Woke up early to pack and catch a train up to Onuma Koen. Breakfast at the other place diagonal to Yoshinoya. I had an oyako don and Tobs decided to get the mani gyu don and mini dan dan men set. It was not bad. Now we are en route on the Hokuto 4. Should reach in 2.5 hours. Time for nap!
We were trying to stuff our luggage into the coin locker at the Onuma Koen station when a helpful staff directed us to go to the tourist information centre. Turned out that it was cheaper there - Y200 each only!
Decided not to ride a bike around Lake Onuma and took the walking route. Thank God for the fine weather but it was a pity that the autumn colors were not as dense so the pictures may look sparse compared to those for the past few days. The lake setting makes for a good picture because of the reflection of the trees though.
Before we left Onuma Koen, we grabbed an Ika Yaki for only Y200. It was so yummy that we went for anor after we were done with the first. Then it was a train ride to Hakodate and we checked into Comfort Hotel before going in search for lunch.
We ended up at the Morning Market where I had a 5-colored donburi and Tobs had a Tokubetsu Teshoku set. Total damage Y3000. My donburi had salmon roe, crab, scallop, shrimp, and salmon. The sashimi was fresh but the rice I did not like. Donburi was one of those things I've wanted to try since forever so this was like ticking something off my list.
Walked around the Hakodate Bay Area since we had about an hour to kill. The restored factories were quite pretty and a creative use of a historical building. They now house restaurants and shops, and are otherwise tourist trap. Went to the Snaffles shop there and they had a maple-flavored cheese cake. It was nice but still a little steep for Japanese sweets.
Got back to the bus terminal in time to catch the 1630 bus up Mt Hakodate. We squeezed onto the first one only to realize they was a second bus coming (for which we would have been able to secure a seat). Boo. At the second stop a bunch of PRC aunties squeezed on and made the ride up really crowded and noisy.
Once up, we geared up (extra uniqlo windbreaker inside coat) and i tried to set up my camera and tripod. It got a little screwed up cos I was rushing but thank God the tripod held up. Even though the winds were really strong, I hope I captured enough shots to make the trip worthwhile.
Hakodate night view is still my favorite of all that I've seen. Except maybe Shiretoko? We went up on our first trip to Japan in 2007 and took the bus as well. Just that we weren't prepared for the strong winds and cold weather. Camera gear was also insufficiently pro. This is our second time and it still takes my breath away.
We were recommended to try the izakaya across the hotel and went there for dinner. (Da4 Yu2 Qi2) The waiter was very nice to tell us we had a complimentary dish because we were referred by the hotel. It was a yummy mash of meat and seafood in a stick. We also ordered grilled ika, grilled hotate, sakana fish and a seafood hotpot. The dishes were good and fresh, as fresh as can be since we saw the life scallop (still twitching and struggling for life) being cooked alive on a hot plate in front of our eyes. Total damage Y2880 only (less than lunch yet wayy more satisfying!!)
Retired early cos we had another early morning train to catch at 7.24am.
Day 6
Comfort hotel breakfast was the usual spread of bread, rice balls and soup but I found myself grabbing the German potato dish. I'm usually not a potato fan but maybe this was made with Hokkaido potatoes - it was tasty!
On board the Limited Express Super Hakucho now where the deepest point of the tunnel is 240m under the straits level. We're headed back to Aomori where we will do Lake Towada today. It was the same long bus ride again to the final stop and enroute we got seats at the front of the bus so we could have a good view of the roads which were like tunnels with trees in autumn colors on the fringe. Bought a whole bunch of eats at Vie De France to munch on the way since we won't be getting a proper lunch. Turned out that their hot cocoa was super delicious. I'm so glad I got to try it!
Upon reaching the final stop at Lake Towada, it was a mad rush to locate and deposit our luggages at the hotel (Nagomi) before running back to catch the departing bus to begin our trekking at Oirase Keiryu. Hopped off at Ishigedo and began trekking upstream. There were lots of trekkers as well and we saw an old man painting the scenery. It was amazing.
Had my tripod so I did some long exposure shots. Pray that they turn out fine! The skies were a bit cloudy but I think that works best with autumn colors. We started super slow, covering little ground because we were taking pictures all the time and climbing off the track to get to spot for a better view.
At the end, Tobs decided we probably will not be able to finish the entire trekking course (which would have taken 3-4 hours) before sunset so we hopped on the JR bus at Kumoino Taki stop and off at the final point Choshio Taki. It was the largest and grandest fall of all and thank God we captured it before sunset. It turned really dark soon after and we got the last bus back to the base, Lake Towada.
Checked in to a quaint Ryokan and was informed that dinner will be served at 6.30pm. Since we had abt an hour before dinner, it was straight to the onsen so soak off all the tiredness and get some warmth into our cold bodies. The onsen was small (3 bathing areas only) but the water was super hot and shiok to soak in after a long day out in the cold.
Dinner was fine except that they served a fish with lots of tiny bones - the type I did not fancy. And To s misinterpreted my instructions to him when I gave him my fish so instead of giving me parts of the flesh without bones so that I can eat it, he polished up my fish and then dropped the fish head and bones back onto my plate. Gosh.
He tried to order more stuff for me to eat but they didn't have anything else to offer. No convenience store nearby either and no wifi. The lady boss was super apologetic I felt slightly bad. We had a Japanese-styled room and by the time we got back, the futon was laid out. Since there was pretty much nothing to do, we slept at 8.30pm.
Day 7
Woke up at 5.30am because we wanted to sight see around the lake before breakfast (at 7am). It was a mystical sight as there was a fog above the water in Lake Towada. Snapped plenty of pictures and lamented that I did not have my tripod with me. There were plenty of other photographs around as well to observe the grand rising of the sun as it illuminated the beautiful autumn scenery surrounding the lake.
It was pretty cold out there (sub 5 probably) so I froze quite quickly and we headed back indoors for one more dip in the onsen. At 6.30am, there was one other lady in there and it was so comforting to soak in the waters. Breakfast was fine and we were soon on our way to Hachinohe station.
Tried to look for more food at Hachinohe but there wasn't much. Nevertheless, we did raid Lawson and ended up with a Meiji Chestnut ice cream. I know it's insane to eat an ice cream in this weather but ever since we tried it in Hakodate, it was so good we just had to have it again! Also had a Maron Latter at Douter. Although it taste mostly of coffee but the after taste was maron. Quite nice.
It's great that maron is in season and there are many maron products cos I love chestnut!! Makes me think back on the maron crime brûlée that we had at Saveur - simply fantastic. I'm loving autumn so much so that I think it may even beat spring. The array of colors, the grandeur of the sights and the sad beauty of life ending temporarily before spring comes - it's amazing. As we travelled I can't help but marvel at what an artist God is to create such sights and nature. He is truly a God of all things!
Stopped over in Sendai and went to Fuyu Korean restaurant at the east exit. It was another good find on tabelog. We had the ginseng chicken soup set and the beef bulgogi set. Then realized that their pancake set was also highly recommended on the takeaway menu so we ordered that as well. The standard was good as well, totally no hint of ajinomoto, just down to earth home-cooked food. I was thoroughly satisfied:)
Then we took the Shinkansen down to Furugawa before changing to a local train to Naruko Onsen, ranked the best in east Japan. We were pleasantly pleased to find a representative to pick us up. Our onsen hotel, Hanabuchi, was an old hotel but the lady boss is super hospitable and exceptionally polite and friendly. Dumped our stuff then went out on walking trail for Naruko Gorge.
Started close to 3.30pm and the walking trail got a bit secluded halfway through. There were also bears sighted in the area - not exactly comforting for tourists trekking through a secluded trail right. Dots. But we completed the walking trail and made it back in time to enjoy the private outdoor onsen at 5pm.
Got a shock when we saw the onsen - the bathing area was outdoors! In the cold! So we took turns to soak ourselves to piping hot before doing our shampoo and soaping separately, interchanging between soaking in the onsen to keep ourselves warm, and showering in the cold. But it was quite nice to just have the entire bath to ourselves. The last time we had anything close was in Dormy Inn.
Then it was dinner time at 6pm. The kaiseiki set looks deceptively small and manageable in quantity but it was crazy lot. There was a full pot of super premium rice at the side and finishing the entire set was a challenge. I kid you not. I concussed about three quarters through the meal and required Tobs' help. Overall, I was very pleased with the food - it was excellent.
We are now back in our room (japanese styled as well) and waiting for food to digest before turning in. Thank God they have wireless here but for some strange reason Tobs can't receive it. Heh so only I get it tonight:)
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