Autumn in Japan Part 4

Day 8

Woke up at 6am with the intention of heading out for the morning view but it was foggy. We ended up at the onsen instead and had a good soak before drinking milk, like how the locals do it. The night before we watched a variety of programmes including one that said its good to drink milk on an empty stomach as it encourages bowel movement in the morning. 

Breakfast was at 8am and the lady boss, after finding out that we don't take much to nato, changed one dish for us to squid. Unfortunately though the dressing was still not to our taste but I can imagine locals treating it as a delicacy. Other than that the breakfast was excellent - traditional japanese style with the yummilicious glowing rice. We polished everything up. I liked that I could add mentai to my rice and the serving of wild vegetables had black sesame mixed into it, super unique. 

Headed out for the trails again after breakfast and there were tons of photographers out alr. The colors were beautiful in the morning sun and there were plenty of people camped out for the moment the train  exits the tunnel into the Naruko Gorge. This year, autumn came early in Japan because of the unusually cold weather. Thanks to the immensely capable husband who switched the itinerary at the last minute, we were able to enjoy the best sights of autumn in Japan. He rocks:)

Our total bill at Hanaguchi came up to Y18,150 only (S$220 thereabouts) and this is inclusive of dinner, breakfast, onsen and accommodation. Who said traveling in Japan is expensive? You just got to be street wise about it. 

Took a ride from the hotel to the station and headed to Shin Jo on local train. Our train passed through that very tunnel in the middle of Naruko Gorge and it intentionally slowed down for the photographers on the bridge to capture it. How thoughtful! Haha. Now we are on the Shinkansen enroute to Yamagata. Final destination is Zao. Yes where my favorite cream cheese drink apparently originates. Can't wait to ship truckloads home!!

Ok turns out that the drink cannot be found in Zao. Even though it's name is Zao White, it's actually manufactured in Miyagi. Boo. We checked into Zao Shikino Hotel and was recommended to walk the old onsen street, take the rope way or take a walk around a lake. Opted for the rope way since it was a beautiful day with blue skies. 

There were 3 different rope ways operating in Zao and we chose the Zao Ropeway (Y1500 to get to the midway station). Did not opt to take the cable car up further to the top because by the midway station the trees were pretty barren so there wasn't much point in going up further. Zao is also a ski village and it was nice to see beautifully manicured ski slopes in their green condition. 

We originally wanted to trek to the Kuro Himei Observatory but after walking down steep ski slopes for close to 15 mins we decided to take the chair lift instead for an easier time. The ski slopes are really not meant for trekking purposes man. The chair lift was only Y200 for a return ride thanks to the discount phamlet we got from the hotel. 

At the end of the ski lift, we went on a trail to view all sorts of matsus, most of them with names. Other than the matsus that are alive (cos they are coniferous) the rest of the stuff on the trail at dead and withered. It was quite sad and we wondered if this was all worth it. But upon reaching the observatory (which was a wooden platform that required one to climb up a steep wooden stairway) the view was breath-taking. You could see the mountains in the far distant and the clouds hovering about, making it seem like heaven. Closer to the foreground, you would see the autumn colors in Zao displayed in full. It was super duper amazing. 

We came quickly back down cos the sun was setting (and it was not fun to be stuck there up in the trail being the only human beings who decided to do it). The chair lift down was great fun cos the view was just in front of us. It was also precarious cos there was no safety barrier and you could just jump/fall off your chair easily! 

The Ropeway down was also sufficiently empty for us to snap great pictures. The sun was setting and it cast a golden light on the trees, making it even more magical. Decided to also hit the old onsen street upon the hotel staff's recommendation but it was just meh cos the houses have been restored. But you also catch large whiffs of the sulphuric onsen and there were some free foot baths enroute but we didn't try those. 

It was back to the hotel for a pre-dinner soak. The bath was huge and although I popped out to the outdoor pool for a bit, it was so dark I could see nothing so I headed back indoors. Soaking in onsen is therapeutic. More so in cold weather. Just that I think it takes some getting used to for non-japanese to be so naked in front of strangers. 

Dinner was in a kaiseiki style with the waiters bringing you additional dishes as they are ready. I did not enjoy grilling my own food though. That being said, the beef was excellent even though I'm pretty sure I'm a bad cook. It'll probably have turned out better if the chef prepared it himself. There was nothing fanciful to shout about. In fact, in terms of satisfaction, I felt Hanabuchi was better. Here, the rice came from a huge common pot and was simply scopped out for diners. I asked if it was possible to order other things - like tempura - and Tobs, with the help of the lady who served us at the front desk with decent English, got us an order of tempura (prawn, scallop, squid, and wild vegetables for Y1500). 

Because there was no wifi in the room, we could only use it in the lobby. So we were sitting there using the computers provided by the hotel to check on stuff when a whole big group of hotel guests (probably on company retreat of sorts) trooped to the ktv room for a good time. We retired soon after cos as usual, there was nothing much to do at night. 

Day 9

I woke up at 5ish am and we went for a soak before breakfast at 7am. It was buffet styled and I didn't find the food impressive. I conclude that one much pick those smaller ryokans over these big hotels so that the food is prepared with heart and there is a certain unique quality to it. The service standard tends to be more personalized and better. Accommodation and tempura cost: Y24,060

We did the walk around the lake after breakfast and then grabbed the hotel's shuttle to the bus terminal. We could have gotten a free ride down to Yamagata station but our original booking was for 2.30pm or sth. It seemed that we have exhausted all that we could do on Zao, with the exception of going to see the caldera but I don't think it's something either of us will be super excited about. The bus down to Yamagata was Y1000 each but I suppose it made sense to head down to Tokyo earlier. 

We are now on the Shinkansen bound for tokyo and will reach around 1348. Then it's really the last 36 hours before we have to fly back:(( Took the Yamanote line to Shin Okubo and checked into Cocochi. The owner probably bought over a whole block of apartment buildings and converted each unit into a hotel room of sorts. So yes, each hotel "room" is essentially a small studio apartment. Quite cosy and frills-free.

Headed back out to Ikebukuro and made a beeline for Tobu where we hit Mon Cher for happy pouch. Was tempted into buying 2 maron happy pouch but when we tried it later after dinner, it was meh. In fact, the clash of flavours (cream cheese filling, maron bits, choc sponge cake wrapped in a crepe layer?!!) was slightly disastrous. The original flavour is still the best.

Then it was to our annual pilgrimage to bomb. But to our horror, when we saw the menu, it no longer has the option of a bomb topping. (gasp! thunder and lighting bolts!) How can bomb no longer have bomb? What will we call it now?! When the staff came to take our order while in the queue (as is usual practice), we tried asking about bomb but was told that they no longer have it. :((

Nevertheless, we had our usual orders and it was fantastic. Decided to add on a gyoza to console ourselves and it turned out to be excellent. Even more excellent was the gyoza dip - a yuzu-flavoured sort of chili. Simply marvelous.

Had to draw more cash from Citibank ATM (cos we were unusually generous this trip!) and I'm happy that its so easy to find Citibank ATMs in all countries I've travelled to. Lifesavers you know. And no fee charged as well.

Tried to drop by Euphoria Ikebukuro to get my perm but was told they were fully booked and there was no English-speaking staff. Got redirected to Shinjuku outlet instead and so we went. Koboyashi, my hair stylist, worked in New York for 5.5 years and spoke fluent English. Thank God for her! Tobs went to walk around while I got my hair done but he got tired of doing it without me so he came back and waited for me in the salon instead. Heh. Damage: Y12,960

Once the digital perm was done, we left to hunt for Don Quixote. The streets were crazy on a Saturday night and this was exacerbated by the Halloween parties going on. It was a riot at Don Quixote cos as smart retailers, they latched onto the festivities and were selling all sorts of costumes at cheap prices. It was crazy getting around in there but we persevered and bagged buys totally Y9640.

The recent changes to the tax rebate scheme now allows tourists to get tax off consumables and cosmetics if the total purchase is above Y5000. For all other goods, it remains at Y10,000. We were also surprised to be served by a Singaporean cashier. Tobs recognised the accent immediately, much to the cashier's dismay. Haha!

By the time we got out of Don Quixote, it was 10.23pm. I was dead beat having woke up close to 5am that day. So we headed straight back to Cocochi and although I tried to be quick, I only got to sleep at 12.30am. Boo.

Day 10
Final chance! I actually woke up at 5am despite sleeping only at 12.30am (argh bio clock!) so I tried forcing myself back to bed but at 6ish when I woke again, I decided I can't go back to sleep anymore. So Tobs (the poor obliging husband) got up and we went in search of food. The original plan was to hit Sukiya but when we got onto the main street, there was an inspiration to go to Ondoru instead cos there was a 24 hour branch. Reasoning being, Sukiya is easy to find anywhere but Ondoru is only available at Shin Okubo.

When we hit Ondoru, we were shocked at the number of patrons there were at like 7.30am. It could easily pass off for a crowd at like say 11.30am?! Madness. We had the cheese soondoobu chigae and the seafood pancake. I decided that only the former was nice and if there's any thing that would make me come back to Ondoru again, it would be the chigae. Otherwise, it has been dropped off my prestigious list of eats in Tokyo.

Headed back to the hotel to pack our stuff and check out. Then it was to Ikebukuro again for sweets at 10am. Anytime is a good time for sweets! Tobs bagged a maron mille crepe at Yoku Moku and it was awesome. I went to get 3 happy pouches and we downed everything at one go. Then it was to Esola for Zoff Plus to get my specs made Y15,120, Sukiya and the branch we frequented when we stayed at Metropolitan Hotel, before chionging back to grab luggages to catch the NEX to Narita Airport.

NEX to Airport then we got the promotional Y500 for a return bus ride to Shisui outlet. I bagged boots from Columbia Y9828 and shoes from Asics Y7452 and Tobs got a pair of jeans for like erh S$12 from GAP. I was good and refrained from buying another Agnes b wallet. Maybe next trip if it's still available!

Overall, a wonderfully planned and executed trip. So glad we did this instead of going to Taiwan. Thank God for making this happen and for giving us fine weather throughout. Big thank you and much love to the husband for tailoring the itinerary for me and making last minute changes to suit the rapidly changing autumn front situation. I declare that autumn is my favourite season:))

Autumn in Japan Part 3

Day 5

Woke up early to pack and catch a train up to Onuma Koen. Breakfast at the other place diagonal to Yoshinoya. I had an oyako don and Tobs decided to get the mani gyu don and mini dan dan men set. It was not bad. Now we are en route on the Hokuto 4. Should reach in 2.5 hours. Time for nap!

We were trying to stuff our luggage into the coin locker at the Onuma Koen station when a helpful staff directed us to go to the tourist information centre. Turned out that it was cheaper there - Y200 each only! 

Decided not to ride a bike around Lake Onuma and took the walking route. Thank God for the fine weather but it was a pity that the autumn colors were not as dense so the pictures may look sparse compared to those for the past few days. The lake setting makes for a good picture because of the reflection of the trees though. 

Before we left Onuma Koen, we grabbed an Ika Yaki for only Y200. It was so yummy that we went for anor after we were done with the first. Then it was a train ride to Hakodate and we checked into Comfort Hotel before going in search for lunch. 

We ended up at the Morning Market where I had a 5-colored donburi and Tobs had a Tokubetsu Teshoku set. Total damage Y3000. My donburi had salmon roe, crab, scallop, shrimp, and salmon. The sashimi was fresh but the rice I did not like. Donburi was one of those things I've wanted to try since forever so this was like ticking something off my list. 

Walked around the Hakodate Bay Area since we had about an hour to kill. The restored factories were quite pretty and a creative use of a historical building. They now house restaurants and shops, and are otherwise tourist trap. Went to the Snaffles shop there and they had a maple-flavored cheese cake. It was nice but still a little steep for Japanese sweets. 

Got back to the bus terminal in time to catch the 1630 bus up Mt Hakodate. We squeezed onto the first one only to realize they was a second bus coming (for which we would have been able to secure a seat). Boo. At the second stop a bunch of PRC aunties squeezed on and made the ride up really crowded and noisy. 

Once up, we geared up (extra uniqlo windbreaker inside coat) and i tried to set up my camera and tripod. It got a little screwed up cos I was rushing but thank God the tripod held up. Even though the winds were really strong, I hope I captured enough shots to make the trip worthwhile. 

Hakodate night view is still my favorite of all that I've seen. Except maybe Shiretoko? We went up on our first trip to Japan in 2007 and took the bus as well. Just that we weren't prepared for the strong winds and cold weather. Camera gear was also insufficiently pro. This is our second time and it still takes my breath away. 

We were recommended to try the izakaya across the hotel and went there for dinner. (Da4 Yu2 Qi2) The waiter was very nice to tell us we had a complimentary dish because we were referred by the hotel. It was a yummy mash of meat and seafood in a stick. We also ordered grilled ika, grilled hotate, sakana fish and a seafood hotpot. The dishes were good and fresh, as fresh as can be since we saw the life scallop (still twitching and struggling for life) being cooked alive on a hot plate in front of our eyes. Total damage Y2880 only (less than lunch yet wayy more satisfying!!)

Retired early cos we had another early morning train to catch at 7.24am. 

Day 6 

Comfort hotel breakfast was the usual spread of bread, rice balls and soup but I found myself grabbing the German potato dish. I'm usually not a potato fan but maybe this was made with Hokkaido potatoes - it was tasty! 

On board the Limited Express Super Hakucho now where the deepest point of the tunnel is 240m under the straits level. We're headed back to Aomori where we will do Lake Towada today. It was the same long bus ride again to the final stop and enroute we got seats at the front of the bus so we could have a good view of the roads which were like tunnels with trees in autumn colors on the fringe. Bought a whole bunch of eats at Vie De France to munch on the way since we won't be getting a proper lunch. Turned out that their hot cocoa was super delicious. I'm so glad I got to try it!

Upon reaching the final stop at Lake Towada, it was a mad rush to locate and deposit our luggages at the hotel (Nagomi) before running back to catch the departing bus to begin our trekking at Oirase Keiryu. Hopped off at Ishigedo and began trekking upstream. There were lots of trekkers as well and we saw an old man painting the scenery. It was amazing. 

Had my tripod so I did some long exposure shots. Pray that they turn out fine! The skies were a bit cloudy but I think that works best with autumn colors. We started super slow, covering little ground because we were taking pictures all the time and climbing off the track to get to spot for a better view. 

At the end, Tobs decided we probably will not be able to finish the entire trekking course (which would have taken 3-4 hours) before sunset so we hopped on the JR bus at Kumoino Taki stop and off at the final point Choshio Taki. It was the largest and grandest fall of all and thank God we captured it before sunset. It turned really dark soon after and we got the last bus back to the base, Lake Towada. 

Checked in to a quaint Ryokan and was informed that dinner will be served at 6.30pm. Since we had abt an hour before dinner, it was straight to the onsen so soak off all the tiredness and get some warmth into our cold bodies. The onsen was small (3 bathing areas only) but the water was super hot and shiok to soak in after a long day out in the cold. 

Dinner was fine except that they served a fish with lots of tiny bones - the type I did not fancy. And To s misinterpreted my instructions to him when I gave him my fish so instead of giving me parts of the flesh without bones so that I can eat it, he polished up my fish and then dropped the fish head and bones back onto my plate. Gosh. 

He tried to order more stuff for me to eat but they didn't have anything else to offer. No convenience store nearby either and no wifi. The lady boss was super apologetic I felt slightly bad. We had a Japanese-styled room and by the time we got back, the futon was laid out. Since there was pretty much nothing to do, we slept at 8.30pm. 

Day 7

Woke up at 5.30am because we wanted to sight see around the lake before breakfast (at 7am). It was a mystical sight as there was a fog above the water in Lake Towada. Snapped plenty of pictures and lamented that I did not have my tripod with me. There were plenty of other photographs around as well to observe the grand rising of the sun as it illuminated the beautiful autumn scenery surrounding the lake. 

It was pretty cold out there (sub 5 probably) so I froze quite quickly and we headed back indoors for one more dip in the onsen. At 6.30am, there was one other lady in there and it was so comforting to soak in the waters. Breakfast was fine and we were soon on our way to Hachinohe station. 

Tried to look for more food at Hachinohe but there wasn't much. Nevertheless, we did raid Lawson and ended up with a Meiji Chestnut ice cream. I know it's insane to eat an ice cream in this weather but ever since we tried it in Hakodate, it was so good we just had to have it again! Also had a Maron Latter at Douter. Although it taste mostly of coffee but the after taste was maron. Quite nice. 

It's great that maron is in season and there are many maron products cos I love chestnut!! Makes me think back on the maron crime brûlée that we had at Saveur - simply fantastic. I'm loving autumn so much so that I think it may even beat spring. The array of colors, the grandeur of the sights and the sad beauty of life ending temporarily before spring comes - it's amazing. As we travelled I can't help but marvel at what an artist God is to create such sights and nature. He is truly a God of all things! 

Stopped over in Sendai and went to Fuyu Korean restaurant at the east exit. It was another good find on tabelog. We had the ginseng chicken soup set and the beef bulgogi set. Then realized that their pancake set was also highly recommended on the takeaway menu so we ordered that as well. The standard was good as well, totally no hint of ajinomoto, just down to earth home-cooked food. I was thoroughly satisfied:)

Then we took the Shinkansen down to Furugawa before changing to a local train to Naruko Onsen, ranked the best in east Japan. We were pleasantly pleased to find a representative to pick us up. Our onsen hotel, Hanabuchi, was an old hotel but the lady boss is super hospitable and exceptionally polite and friendly. Dumped our stuff then went out on walking trail for Naruko Gorge. 

Started close to 3.30pm and the walking trail got a bit secluded halfway through. There were also bears sighted in the area - not exactly comforting for tourists trekking through a secluded trail right. Dots. But we completed the walking trail and made it back in time to enjoy the private outdoor onsen at 5pm. 

Got a shock when we saw the onsen - the bathing area was outdoors! In the cold! So we took turns to soak ourselves to piping hot before doing our shampoo and soaping separately, interchanging between soaking in the onsen to keep ourselves warm, and showering in the cold. But it was quite nice to just have the entire bath to ourselves. The last time we had anything close was in Dormy Inn. 

Then it was dinner time at 6pm. The kaiseiki set looks deceptively small and manageable in quantity but it was crazy lot. There was a full pot of super premium rice at the side and finishing the entire set was a challenge. I kid you not. I concussed about three quarters through the meal and required Tobs' help. Overall, I was very pleased with the food - it was excellent. 

We are now back in our room (japanese styled as well) and waiting for food to digest before turning in. Thank God they have wireless here but for some strange reason Tobs can't receive it. Heh so only I get it tonight:)

Autumn in Japan Part 2

Day 3

Slept quite well on Hamanasu with the aid of a relaxant. The seats were heated and it got a little too hot halfway through to the extent that I had to remove one layer of pants to prevent myself from sweating too much in the heat. 

Reached Sapporo super early in the morning and went to dump luggage  at Mitsui Garden Sapporo. Then we went in search for breakfast before our day trip out. Settled for Yoshinoya and Tobs got tempted by the unagi set. We got that (the one with 2 eels!), a mid sized gyu don with salad topping, and then added on another gyu topping at the end cos we had a lot more rice that needed to go with some gyu. 

At the end when we were getting the bill, it all came up to Y2130. When the cashier announced the total price, the male diner near us gave us a look. I guess one would not expect to pig out on so much food at a fast food chain like Yoshinoya? Haha. 

Stopped by Ueshima Coffee cos I wanted to get their seasonal special - matcha latte with ginger. It tasted quite yummy and offered us a place to chill before our 9am bus. Got a package that included return bus rides and a dip in one of the onsens at Jozenki. We headed to Hoheikyo first and had to trek super long just to reach the electric bus station. Big buses aren't allowed in the area for environmental concerns. 

Alternatively, you could also trek all the way to the dam but we had just come a super long way from the station to the electric bus stop so we took the return electric bus instead. The view was different, fringed by the huge dam on one side, and a lake on the other. We took lots of pictures and then trekked up to view the dam from another vantage point. Thank God for the fantastic weather. I hope the photos do it justice!

Then it was time to get lunch and bathe. We were left with only one choice since most onsen resorts offer the latter but not the former. Ended up in Daiichi hotel and topped up Y200 for towels (cos obviously we didn't have any with us). Lunch in the resort was soba and ten don but the service was quite appalling and slow. Food was not bad but the lady who served us at the beginning really left a bad impression. Damage: Y3024

Went to soak in the onsen to get rid of all the tiredness. I love the outdoor pool where you get a nice view of the autumn scenery. Had to get out by about 1530 so that we could catch the return bus back to Sapporo. 

All these long bus rides are good for sleeping. By the time we reached Sapporo, it was 1800ish and we went in search for food. Bagged F-cup at Y360 which was fantastic as usual. Tobs also bought a Chou-like item that was expensive (Y185) and didn't taste that great. Found the rum puffs at a discount that day (Y98) and Tobs ate 1 and then bought another 4. We also had a grape tart (with the largest grapes that I've ever seen around). 

En route back on the bus, I saw a crepe van and plenty of ppl around it either queuing or eating. I must must get it! So we walked to the junction at Big Camera and bought a maron crepe. The crepe was soft and fragrant, the toppings were quite generous. My only gripe is that I can't bite into the ice cream without feel sharp stings in my teeth :( but it was an awesome crepe. Wished we each had one!

The hotel was comfortable with considerable space (by Japanese standards). Watched a documentary commemorating the 100th anniversary of Tokyo or sth and was super impressed by how far ahead civilization was in the early 1900s in Japan as compared to the rest of the world. They would have achieved much much more without the war. 

Day 4 

Didn't opt for the hotel breakfast cos there was not much sene in paying Y1500 for a semi international buffet spread when all I really want to eat is Jspanese local breakfast. We went in search of Sukiya and stopped by the Government House for more photo opportunities. 

I super duper heart the cheese gyu don at Sukiya. They are also the only one that offers an option between small and medium sized bowls which gives the rice portion of the small bowl but much more meat. Exactly the way I like it. Plus it costs the same as a regular medium bowl (more rice less meat) so why not!

Decided to hang around the city because we wanted to try this highly rated restaurant Saveur. But the lunch only begins at 12. Walked about Sapporo a bit and went poking around Don Quihote. Bought a back straightener which I immediately tried. Tobs will prob get one himself too. Was highly annoyed when we smelt something awesome (butter croissant-like aroma) but just could not identify where it was coming from. After walking around the area a few times, we gave up. Not before sitting down outside KFC for a bit and drooling over the ads for a new product - KFC chicken with Yuzu and chili spices. Hope to try it sometime! 

At Saveur, you had the option of the Saveur lunch set for Y2100 and the Special lunch set for Y4850. After some great difficulty in communicating with the waitress, we realized we can have one of each - both diners must order the same set. So, in a wise moment of indulgence, we opted for the Special set. And it was mega duper awesome. All praise for it even up to the last course. Although this was quite a huge spending but it was worth it. The chef and the lady boss even saw us to the lift and thanked us for dining with them. What wonderful hospitality. I hope they will still be around the next time I visit Sapporro. 

Since we hung around Sapporo for lunch, that means we had to head down to Noboribetsu after lunch    Rushed for the train and made it to Noboribetsu but the weather was gloomy (started raining as well) and it was not within walking distance to Hell Valley. Bus was Y320 each and infrequent. A taxi ride would have costed Y1900. It was unfortunate but we had to turn back. 

When we reached Sapporo we went to grab our sweets first. Good thing we did so cos we got the last C cup. When we dropped by Le Tao to take a look at their maron cake which was sold out the day before, we realized it was a chiffon cake and decided not to get it in the end. 

Tobs grabbed the mon blanc he wnted but it wasn't as fantastic as the Ginza one. The Chou stick, however, was quite yummy. I loved the crust that was similar to that of cookie Chou, except better cos it had nut bits on it as well. :) 

Decided to try a nabe place that was ranked quite highly on tabelog. Ordered their bite-sized gyoza, mentai tamago (yums!!) and a nabe pot that was recommended WITHOUT ASKING WHAT MEAT WAS IN THE POT. Both of us assumed it was normal meat or seafood. 

When the pot came and cooked, we realized it wasn't. And the waitress informed it was beef intestines. But it was quite fatty and I only had 2 pieces. Tobs didn't even manage to eat one. In the end we ate all the veg in the pot and left the most precious part, the fatty beef intestines untouched. Most expensive price we paid for a pot of veg (Y1280Y each). Luckily we had the sweets as a nice round up. 

Autumn in Japan 2014 Part 1

Flights
16 October 2014 2355 - 17 October 2014 0800
26 October 2014 2050 - 27 October 2014 0325 
$714.30 each on S

JR pass Y46,390 - 5% discount for 2pax Y88,141

Day 0
We were departing from T3 but still travelled back to T2 for Green Market lounge access. The plane was refurbished and had those swanky touch screens with lots of entertainment options. I watched Fault in Our Stars then went to sleep while Tobs made full use of his SQ ticket by staying up and watching like 3 movies.

Day 1
Changed our JR passes and headed straight up to Sendai. Tobs took the opportunity to catch up on sleep on the train. I slept on and off - afterall, someone needs to look out for when we alight right! When we hit Sendai close to 12, we found the original location of Triangle under renovation with signs directing us to their current location.

With the help of the tourist information centre lady, we found our way there. It was so far away - first the sky walk to get to the other side of the street, then walk down at least 2 shopping streets before you get to the hotel which now houses Triangle. This may be the last time I'm having it. When it used to be right at the JR station, it was at least convenient but now, it's just too troublesome.

I had my mentai soup spaghetti. So did Tobs (with upsize). I got the cream cheese drink as well. As usual, it was splendid. I have never had anything close and nothing really compares with Triangle. Saw St Marcs Cafe en route back but did not grab anything. Instead, bought a caramel pumpkin crossiant taiyaki - imagine that! It turned out quite interesting and yummy.

Train up to Shin-Aomori and took a detour because we hopped on the wrong local train that took us in the opposite direction we wanted to go. But luckily there was a small station that was shielded from the cold wind. Got to Aomori around 5 and checked in to Hotel Passage.

After getting recommendations, I picked the old school home-cooking-ish place called [ ]. Tobs had the local speciality hotate stew and I picked the grilled hotate. My grilled hotate came in 3 humongous shells with 6 scallops in them. Super worth it! Ended up adding a fried hotate to our order cos I saw the lady at the next table having it. It was wonderful as well. ￥1030 each and total bill came up to ￥3090.

Took a short walk around the bay area and attempted to take pictures without the tripod. Failed miserable. It got really cold after a while too so we headed back after grabbing an apple cider from A Factory. Slept real early around 9.30ish cos alarm was set at 6am the next day.

Day 2
It was all bright and sunny even at 6am when we woke up. The breakfast was impressive, with a good selection of meat and desserts. Deposited luggage at front desk then it was off to queue for Bus 11 to head to Lake Tawada. Thanks to JR pass, the bus ride was free. The tour bus had commentary in Japanese but none in English (boo).

There was one short toilet stop but we all went to snap pictures instead. Hopped off at the Hakkoda ropeway stop and quickly got on the ropeway but was stuck with a PRC tour group. Used the 10% discount coupon so it was ￥1650. As the ropeway headed up, it was still pretty picturesque but near to the top, the weather suddenly turned super bad and it started raining and fogging up badly.

When we alighted, Tobs said to go immediately to take the same cable down. I guess it didn't make sense to hang around at the top since you can hardly see anything at all and it was really super duper cold.

The thing about the JR bus is that frequency is an issue and your movements are controlled by when the next bus arrives. Plus, it was raining so exploring outside was not an option. We hid in the cafe next to the ropeway station and ordered a ramen. Turned out surprisngly edible and we could have the free wheat tea which kept us warm.

Hopped onto the bus and headed to the next spot Jogakura Onsen. Thank God the weather changed for the better. Walked close to 30mins to the bridge and it was breathtaking. En route, all the autumn colours were in full display and we took lots of photos. It was crazy windy on the bridge and half the time, I could not feel my fingers.

Then we finally decided we ought to wear our uniqlo jackets before we both fell sick. After we did so, we felt so much warmer. It was 30mins back to the bus stop again and then off to the next spot Tsuta Onsen.

We almost missed the stop cos both Tobs and I fell asleep (I was asleep for less of the time and realised in the nick of time that it was our stop and quickly woke him). Unfortunately, it had started drizzling again so we tried to find shelter. As well as lunch. 2 options: some run down shed-looking place near the bus stop, or eating in the onsen hotel. Decided on the latter. If we were poor students, we would have definitely opted for the former but hey, let's not torture ourselves anymore cos 10 days will pass damn quickly.

It was an excellent choice. He had a fish set and I had some gyu set. It was value-for-money (￥1780 each set only) and tasted good. Most of all, it gave us a very nice place to relax in while waiting for the rain to stop. After we were done with lunch around 1430, we went on the walking route and found many beautiful lakes that reflected the autumn sights. Although the path was quite muddy from the rain, it was still bearable. The sights more than made up for it.

I hope my photos do justice to what I saw. One lament I have is that my photography skills aren't superb so I may not be able to capture the essence of the moment. But it was nevertheless wonderful to be doing this with the love of my life - our first Autumn together! ;))

Catch the 1610 bus back and slept all the way until we reached Aomori at 1800ish. Headed for dinner at Ringdako and had some problems ordering cos the menu was in Japanese with little pictures. The waiter was very patient with us and gave us some recommendations. His recommendations did not turn up very nice though - the beef was strange and cold (Tobs suspects its tongue), and the hotate stew was meh in comparison to yesterday's. The gindara I ordered was not bad. But, we claimed a free sushi and free tempura and found the latter delicious. So we ordered not one but TWO tempura moriwases ￥(640 each)!Dinner came up to ￥4110, a price we would not even have dreamt of spending in the past.

Now we're back in Hotel Passage hanging around waiting for 2200 to board Hamanasu. Did not manage to get the sleeping spots so will have to settle for the chair. But my last experience on the chair was not too bad. At least this settles both accomodation and getting us from one place to another! Praying for good weather the next few days!

Tobs reminded me that today is already Day 2 of the trip, one-fifth is gone. Sigh. When will we ever have the luxury to do those 30-day trips again? My youth..